Today was my seventh and last day in Ubud. It was the first time I’d stayed in one city for so long, and I was really glad I did. If I’d done my normal three days in one place, I would have exhausted myself trying to see as much as possible. I wouldn’t have had much time to enjoy the hotel pool and massages. I probably wouldn’t have done the bike tour that was my favorite day of the whole trip. Instead, I slowed down and really got to experience the magic of Ubud.
Campuan Ridge Walk
I spent the morning going back to to do the ridge walk I’d almost done the first day. The walk was 8 km round trip, and started about 1.5 miles from my hotel. The first day I’d walked all the way to the start. But not today. I took a motorcycle taxi to the start. It was long narrow loop that went north from the main street of Ubud. I was surprised when the taxi driver suggested he take me to the north end of the loop, and then I could walk back. I assumed he just wanted a larger fare and declined.
The walk started at the temple Pura Gunung Lebah, which I’d already visited the first day. I knew it was closed to visitors so I just started on the trail that went along the side of the temple.
Soon enough the trail climbed onto Campuan Ridge, which is a narrow field of elephant grass between two river gorges. The grass was a field of sparkling green, and the sun stayed bright even thought there were quite a few puffy white clouds in the sky. There were views of trees and houses in the river gorges on both sides of the ridge.
Eventually the ridge widened and the trail became a small road going between beautiful green rice fields. I was glad to be able to see the rice fields again before leaving Ubud. But it was also very hot. I stopped at the Karsa Cafe and had a cold strawberry Fanta on their beautiful grounds. I had a gorgeous view of a lily pond and the green rice fields cascading away in the distance.
After a few more rice fields, the “walk” transitioned to a real road and turned west, going steeply down into one of the river gorges, and then even more steeply back up. At the top were a couple of small temples, and then I started walking back south. I was going through small villages, similar to my bike ride days before. And the bamboo penjor poles lining the road were more spectacular than any I’d seen yet. Many of them had ducks or geese as part of the decoration.
As I got closer to Ubud, the small villages faded away and turned into busy streets. It was still very warm and I was tired of walking. But my second destination for the day was on the way back, and it was something I was really looking forward.
I also stopped for lunch at a place recommended by my guidebook. It was called Warung Pulau Kelapa and I think I was the first patron for the day. It was a beautifully landscaped garden with tables inside little huts. I got a strawberry lassi and mi goreng, which were both delicious.
Cave Grotto Spa
My last adventure in Ubud is something you’ll not find in any guidebook. I happened upon it while researching Bali on the internet. I stumbled upon someone’s blog that had lots of useful information, and as soon I saw the pictures of the cave grotto spa I knew I had to go there.
The spa is part of the Hotel Tjampuhan, which sits on a bluff way above one of the river gorges next to Campuan Ridge. When I entered the hotel I could tell it was one of the really pricey ones that is way above my budget. I asked someone for directions and was soon headed behind the hotel and down through some steeply landscaped gardens. It was gorgeous.
The spa was almost near the bottom of the ravine. I signed up for a massage in about an hour, but that is not why I was there. The spa has some pools surrounded by the most fantastically-carved stone I’ve ever seen. And the pools can be accessed by anyone using the spa’s services.
Thankfully they had a changing room, so I changed into my swimsuit and went to enjoy the pools. There was a hot pool and a cool pool, so I alternated between the two, feeling like I was in the middle of a fantasy world. The pools were open to the air, and I could hear the river not far below us.
When it came time for my massage I was surprised to find that the massage room was also open to the air. There were only three walls, with one end facing the green jungle leading down to the river. It was very relaxing to hear the sounds of the forest and river while I got to experience another wonderful Thai massage.
After the massage I wanted to enjoy the pools some more, so I went back. This time I also tried out the sauna and steam room, and was wonderfully relaxed. I really didn’t want to leave. Partly because my legs were tired and I knew it wouldn’t be pleasant going back up to the top of the steep bluff. But also because this was my last real adventure in Ubud, and I didn’t want to leave this magical place. It’s kind of like Ubud was in a bubble, where nothing else mattered and time didn’t exist. But having to leave meant my journey was nearing its end, and nearing my return to reality.
Eventually I headed on my way, and the journey up the bluff was just as tiring as I expected. I had to walk a little further back into town, and as soon as I could got a motorcycle taxi back to my hotel.
Dinner & Ramayana Ballet
For my last night in Ubud I decided to see the Ramayana Ballet at Pura Taman Saraswati (the Ubud Water Palace). And there was a restaurant out front called Cafe Lotus that had a view of the palace and lotus ponds. So I went there. It was a beautiful location, but I don’t think the food was that great.
The ballet turned out to be my least favorite of all the Balinese dances I’d seen. But I suspect that’s at least partly because it was my last, and my second time at the same venue. The first few dances had been amazing experiences, where I was completely enveloped by the beauty of the dancer’s movements and costumes, as well as the dazzling settings in the temples. But I think the experience was becoming too familiar. It seemed like the quality of the dance wasn’t as good. And halfway through I realized I wasn’t even paying attention to the temple backdrop. I was also very tired from all my walking.
I actually didn’t want to stay to the end of the performance, but I thought it would be rude to get up and leave. So I stayed to the end, but I was glad when it was finally over.
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